Summer in London has come and gone, marking my one year anniversary since moving here.  After the 12 month “probationary” period, I was able to renew my work visa for an additional four years…a process much simpler than getting the original approval.  In addition to the new visa, I have managed to fill up my passport in the past few months…something that too few people ever experience (in my humble opinion).

 

The month of June was dominated by the World Cup (with May dominated by pundits prognosticating on England’s chances of winning it).  I took a trip to Munich to get a first-hand account of arguably the world’s most festive sporting event.  I planned my time there to coincide with the United States vs. Italy match, and although that game took place in Kaiserslautern, the atmosphere was incredible.  I met my college friend Matt, and watched the match on a large projection screen in a beer hall (packed mostly with Germans and Italians…whose homeland is a relatively short drive south).  The US had their best outing of a wholly disappointing tournament, taking the only point off of Italy, the eventual winners of the Cup.  Thanks Helmut, for being such a gracious host…any time you or Manu find yourself in London, you have a place to stay.

 

In August, I made my one and only foray of the summer into the countryside…far too few, I know.  Steve, Francis, and I met in the Lake District on a Friday evening, and hiked into hills near Grasmere Saturday morning.  The landscape is barren – all grass, rock, and low shrubs – an effect of the last ice age and hungry sheep, which roam the hillsides.  Our plan was to camp in the hills that night, but a stiff breeze and horizontal rain convinced us otherwise.  Huddled against a small rock cairn atop an exposed ridge, the lure of warm environs, a cozy pub, and a dry bed were too appealing to deny.  The next day brings calmer weather and a trip up Helvellyn, England’s second highest peak (which isn’t saying much, but sounds good nonetheless).  The scramble up Striding Edge to the top was the definite highlight.

 

With Francis, I also visited Dublin and Estepona, her hometown.  I found Dublin to be an incredibly friendly city (and also a favorite spot for hen / stag do’s).  I think I drank more Guinness there in three days than I have in the past three years combined…when in Dublin, right?  I had a fabulous time in Estepona, a smaller town on Spain’s south coast.  It has (so far) been able to stay off the radar of most tourists, and has a feel that is entirely Spanish.  I hope it stays that way.  We stayed with Francis’ parents, who also were gracious hosts.  I studied a bit of Spanish before the trip, as her family (with the exception of her cousin) does not speak any English.  I think I managed to only mildly butcher their language.

 

I recently joined the Shene Old Grammarians Football Club, who are based out of Putney.  Their home grounds at Barn Elms are directly across the Thames from Craven Cottage, Fullham’s stadium.  During our first match a few weeks ago, we were playing at the same time Chelsea were playing Fulham – the experience of playing to chanting fans (albeit for another match, and across the river), was fun.  I’m looking forward to the upcoming season, staying fit (hopefully), and getting to know the other lads on the team.

 

And finally, our book was published after over a year of writing and editing.  I’m not sure if any of the authors anticipated it being quite this much work, but the experience was well worth it…in no small part due to the quality of the group.  Mark, Mark, Stephen, Brandon, Brennan, and Alex – thank you!  The first time I saw it in hardcopy was during my trip back to Seattle for the recent SOA conference at Microsoft.  It was great catching up with family and friends – seeing them makes me realize how lucky I am to have them – something I can forget from time to time over here in London.  Things I’m struck by since returning to the UK – cafes with free wireless internet are brilliant, Seattle is beautiful, and man, do I miss good Mexican food.

 

Ben

After a hiatus from blogging, I’m back at it.  The past few months have been eventful to say the least….

 

Christmas and NYE at home in Seattle was great…good to see family, friends, and my city.  The usual cast of characters was home for the holidays.  We saw the Seahawks play and beat the Colts on Christmas Eve, and partied at Garrett’s sister’s place on NYE…the babies at the party must be a sign that we’re getting older.  Also managed to get a group of ex-quarians together for a festive reunion, which was well-attended.  Thanks to everyone who made it.

 

Upon return to the UK, I promptly was put on a project up in Blackpool (think seaside town aspiring to be Atlantic City but falling short).  It’s the gambling capital of England, and has more hotel beds than the whole of Portugal.  To be precise, I’m actually working in Lytham / St. Annes, a sleepy suburb of Blackpool which occasionally hosts the British Open.  I’ll have to figure out a way to get myself a tee-time at the Royal Lytham course.

 

In addition to traveling each week for work I have done a few trips…a weekend in Florence, a week in the French Alps with Nate, and a long weekend in NYC with Fisher and Cedric. 

 

It was great to see Florence again under a less-intense itinerary…the Boboli Garden was a highlight. 

 

Nate and I home-based out of Chamonix, a town I fell in love with on my last tour through Europe.  I swore, at the top of the Aiguille du Midi, that I would be back with my skis…it took 2 ½ years, but I made it.  The Vallee Blanche, the world’s longest run at 24km, was an epic first day.  We hooked up with a guide, Didier (perfectly French in both attitude and accent), and a fellow Seattle-ite, Chris (met the previous evening at dinner), and caught one of the first trams out of the valley in the morning.  Two vertiginous lifts placed us at the top of the Aiguille.  After being roped together, we slip and slide our way down a knife-edge ridge to a small col where we click in and descend through crevasses and seracs, winding our way down through the Mer du Glace back to town.  The beers at the bottom were the epitome of refreshing.  Our next fews days took us to The Grand Montet, Turin, and Le Brevent / Flegere…all amazing save for Turin, which left me wondering if (and how) they actually had hosted the Olympics one month prior.  Had to be the most pedestrian-unfriendly city I’ve been to.

 

NYC, like Florence, was great to see with more time and less to do.  Fisher graciously hosted me in his upper west-side apartment.  The MOMA, the harbor cruise, a walk across the Brooklyn Bridge are things I’ll always remember, but more than anything it was great to hang out and catch up with Fisher, Cedric, and Atina.  I’m not sure if it will ever happen, but I could definitely enjoy living there for a year or two…it would be a great comparison between London and NYC…at the same time similar and incredibly different.

 

Amongst all the running around, I moved into a new flat in Islington (equidistant between Angel and Old Street tube stations) with Asha.  The area is incredible…close to The City, work, and a slew of great spots to head to at night.  It’s also fun to have a roomie again…she hates to cook for just one, and I’m happy to help her finish the extra portion.  We are looking forward to the upcoming spring, better weather, and BBQ’s out on our balcony.

London is an international hub - both a waypoint and a destination for travellers.  I have been lucky enough to have a series of friends and family come through and into town since moving here.  It has been great to share my new home with them, and I even get the sense that I am beginning to consider myself a Londoner.  Could be the fact that I generally know how to get around town without a map, or get mildly annoyed at people slowing the flow through the underground turnstiles or missing out on an issue of The Metro on my way to work in the morning

 

Most recently, Meghan and Ryker have been in London.  Meghan and I experienced the British version of the 4^th of July (Guy Fawkes Day) – not that the Brits had to fight for independence from anybody, but they celebrate the foiled attempt to blow up Parliament by setting of fireworks.  Makes sense, right?  We also spent a few days in Bruges and Amsterdam.  It’s a wonder how anyone in Belgium is thin (which most of them are), since they seem to consume few things other than fries, chocolate, waffles, and strong beer (pretty much the ideal diet, if you ask me).

 

Amsterdam was also phenomenal.  The Van Gogh museum is one of my all-time favorites, and should be seen by anybody with a remote interest in Impressionism.  We also walked through the Red Light district that night, which was...educational.  A must-see for anyone in Amsterdam.  Period.  A place unlike any other.  I thoroughly enjoyed both cities...there's a charm and coziness about canalled cities that is very welcoming.

 

Ryker and I had a more recreational time while he was here, covering most of West London by foot in one day.  He was treated to an incredible spell of winter weather – cold, clear, crisp days that make you thankful for scarves and gloves.  We celebrated Thanksgiving with some other ex-pats friends from around the globe, albeit a few days early and without the traditional (American) football games.

 

I have missed American football, although I have become a regular at the Walmer Castle on Wednesday nights to watch Champion’s League matches.  I have finally pledged my allegiance to a London football club: Fulham FC.  After deliberating long and hard on which side to choose as an adopted team, I have made my decision.  Fulham had the right mix of proximity to my current flat, mediocrity (I couldn’t, in good conscience, go with Chelsea…they’re just too good), and American make-up.  We have two US internationals on the team: Carlos Bocanegra and Brian McBride.  A few weekends ago I went to a match with Liz, an Aussie friend of Mandy’s, and McBride had a brace within the opening 20 minutes.  Brilliant.  It was a cold day at Craven Cottage, which sits along the banks of the Thames, but was well worth it.  I will be back.

 

COME ON FULHAM, COME ON FULHAM, COME ON FULHAM

Last weekend I took to the road and headed west into the British countryside.  I woke early on Saturday so as to not endanger any more Londoners than necessary, as I haven’t driven since the move, and have never driven on the left side of the road.  Once you get used to orienting yourself differently and the concept of a round-about, it’s actually not that bad.  At least that’s my impression…I didn’t stop to ask anyone else on the road at the same time as me, and they may have had a distinctly different take on things.  Anyways, I managed to avoid any collisions and all pedestrians, and made it to Stonehenge by mid-morning.

 

It was a windy and grey morning, which seemed to complement the pre-historic monument.  My first impression while driving up to it was simply that the stones are massive.  And only two-thirds of the upright ones are above ground.  As with the Taj Mahal, the Coliseum, Ankor Wat – you know going into it that you are about to see something amazing, but there’s nothing quite like the first site of it.  I crested a hill in the glorified go-cart I had rented, and even from a distance it was impressive. 

 

The old Roman town of Bath was next on the road trip…I actually enjoyed the drive as well.  It felt good to be mobile in that way again.  The approach from the south provides a stunning view of the city laid out on the hill above the snaking Avon River.  Most of the buildings are made from local stone, which has a distinctive golden hue to it and gives off a visual warmth, even on an overcast and blustery day.  There was a rugby match that day, and the streets crowded with jerseyed tourists.  The 2,000 year old baths there still function reasonably well…a tribute to Roman engineering.

 

Thankful for the extra hour of sleep (which was needed after staying at a co-worker’s family’s place that night and drinking a large volume of wine), Sunday dawned to a steady drizzle.  My grand plans of going for a country walk through Whittington were shelved in preference to a drive through nearby towns.  I cannot recommend the route I took highly enough.  From Latton (near Swindon), I drove to Down Ampney, and then up through Arlington, Bibury, and a succession of small towns dotting the Coln River: Ablington, Winson, Coln Rogers, Calcot, Coln St. Dennis, and Fossebridge.  Maybe it was the fact that I saw almost no other cars or the changing of the leaves, but it was one of the most amazing stretches of road I’ve ever been on.  Each town had its own character, mixing stone farm houses and churches with gardens, pastures, and paddocks.  Simply put, it was phenomenally charming.  Get there if you can.

 

Mother Nature smiled upon the Cotswolds as noon passed, and the clouds gave way to a tentatively sunny day.  The most appealing country walk in my Pathfinder Guide was a short drive away, and I made for the Crickley Hill Country Park.  The walk winds along the crest of the mountains above Cheltenham.  I hesitate to call what they have in the Cotswolds mountains…they are really more like hills.  I understand it’s all in your perspective, but referring to the as mountains doesn’t do justice to the Chugach or Himalayas.  Regardless, the views were great.  The path was muddy, and led through woods and past pastures.  It was unlike any walk / hike I’ve ever done, as it was more a connected series of scenic routes than a defined trail.  I passed few people, which was nice.  The walk ended near the Hot Air Balloon pub, which served decent food and good beer.

 

All in all, it was a great first experience in the British countryside, and a well needed escape from London.  My appetite is whetted for more exploring.

I’m amazed at how quickly one can get used to living in a world-city.  Within a couple of months, I’ve become accustomed to being insulated by city and urban sprawl, extending in all directions for miles.  Most of life’s conveniences are within a short walk or tube ride away, and the city buzzes with the meeting and merging of cultures.  Pubs, cafes, and bars are everywhere.  There are more world-class art exhibits, performances, and football matches than you could ever hope to attend.  Life moves at an accelerated pace…people pulse through the city’s veins on tube cars and busses.  London exhales the exhaust of perpetual motion.

 

After a weekend trip to Germany’s Rhine River valley, a steep-sided groove cut through the surrounding farmlands and dotted with castles and vineyards, I realized how consolidated London’s green spaces are.  I’ve heard that up to a third of my new home is parklands.  I’m not sure if this is true, but a majority of the grass in London exists in Hyde, Regent’s, St. James / Green, and Battersea Park.  It has the interesting effect of consolidating all those people looking for a respite from concrete into a few areas.  Football practice, family picnics and pick-up cricket games, model boat enthusiasts, joggers and dog walkers, strolling couples, sunbathers and tourists all share the same space.

 

With a bit of perspective from last weekend, I realize how much I miss nature…not to take anything away from London’s parks, as they are great, but they do feel fenced in.  You get the sense that they are pockets within the city, as opposed to the city being a part of a larger natural environment.  I think this may be reinforced by the fact that you cannot see any hills or mountains on the horizon…in fact, you’re lucky to see anything more than a few hundred meters away in any direction.  I know this feeling will only grow as winter sets in, and my thoughts turn to skiing.  At the very least, the rain will be familiar.

 

I’ve added the Cotswolds, the Lake District, and Scotland to my list of places to see, as I think there are good places to get back to nature relatively close by.  The British countryside will have to be my new American wilderness.

Simply put, the past couple months have been busy and eventful…

 

After returning from SE Asia and India, where I had the chance to travel around with my buddies Artich, Ananth, and Ryker, I've managed to:

 

Sort out all my issues with the UK work visa…

  …relieving after the 6 AM phone call to the British Home Office to find out the good news – certainly a good way to start a day…

 

purge most of my possessions…

  ...freeing and refreshing – happy to give away to friends, family, Goodwill, and others more needy than myself, and shocked to realize just how many “things” I’ve accumulated over the last few years …for a similar experience, take a look in your storage closet…or even just your clothes closet…how many of those items have you used, or even considered in conscious thought, in the past year?...

 

 remove myself from life as an American citizen…

  …hoping that I’ve remembered everything, and won’t be notified 6 months down the road of some horrendously large bill…

 

say farewells to friends an family, who I already miss…

  …poignant, funny and fun, and most of all, memorable…

 

and finally get on a plane for London, with far too much luggage for any one person to reasonably lug around.

 

London has been amazing.  My first week was spent looking at flats, figuring out the details on UK bank accounts / public transportation / cell service / broadband / etc…  I was able to narrow down my living scenario choices to a studio flat in Notting Hill and a shared flat (with two others) in Chelsea.  In the end, the desire to have my own place won out, and I moved into the Notting Hill flat almost exactly one week after landing in London.  I like the neighborhood already…good, funky vibe with a great selection of shops, cafes (quite disappointed by the lack of free internet), pubs, and restaurants, and a killer weekend market on Portobello Road.  Doesn’t quite feel like home yet, but it’s getting there.  I’ve bought a few things for the flat…decent bedding (which I’m a sucker for) and some plants to soften the space…but other than that, I’m trying to keep my “things” to a minimum for now – I’d say I’m going for the simple life, but that makes me think of bad reality TV.

 

I’ve managed to meet up with a few friends of friends over here, which has been great.  There’s been at least a couple degrees of separation between myself and the people I’ve seen.  One is a highschool girlfriend’s sister’s roommate…then there’s my former roommate’s brother’s good friend…and an old co-worker’s best man.  In the end, everyone I’ve met over here has been friendly, welcoming, and helpful with bits of London knowledge.  Thanks to everyone for the UK contacts.

 

Alright…enough for now.  I actually have to work tomorrow (the first day of the new job at Charteris), which given the fact I’ve only worked 2 ½ weeks over the past 3 months, may be a bit shocking on the system.  More to come…

 

Little Ben